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  • Writer: hiba atallah
    hiba atallah
  • 2 days ago
  • 2 min read

Walk through the old markets of Damascus, and you will see them hanging like captured light – cloths embroidered with gold and silver threads, their motifs curling in perfect harmony. These are Aghabani fabrics, known across Syria and beyond, yet their story runs deeper than market stalls and table settings.


Aghabani is not just embroidery.It is a blueprint of heritage.

It begins with a simple cloth – cotton, silk, or organza. Onto this, artisans stamp patterns using carved woodblocks dipped in washable blue ink. The process is meticulous: each block pressed firmly, leaving behind designs of roses, almonds, clocks, arabesques, and vine scrolls. These motifs are not mere decorations; they are visual languages telling stories of Damascus gardens, Ottoman courts, and village feasts.


Then the real magic begins. The printed outlines are handed to embroiderers who bring them alive with threads of gold, silver, or soft white viscose. They use chain stitch embroidery, layering each loop until the motifs seem to float above the cloth, catching light with every movement.


Historically, Aghabani was reserved for nobility and scholars. Its shine adorned wedding garments, ceremonial robes, and home textiles that marked celebrations. But over time, it found its place on tables and cushions, in wardrobes and trousseaus, becoming part of daily life while never losing its air of prestige.


Its roots run especially deep in Duma, a town northeast of Damascus. Here, families passed the craft down like an heirloom. Embroidery machines were part of dowries. Stitches were counted like days, marking time not in hours but in patterns completed and pieces delivered. Entire generations grew up listening to the hum of machines and the quiet concentration of mothers and aunts at work.


Then war came. Homes were abandoned, machines left behind, threads cut short.

For a while, Aghabani embroidery teetered on the edge of disappearance. But heritage, like a resilient vine, finds a way. Many artisans smuggled out their machines, restarting their work in neighbouring villages or in Damascus itself. When Duma reopened in 2018, they returned, bringing with them not just cloth and thread, but a craft that had refused to die.


Today, each Aghabani piece you see carries this journey – from Ottoman courts to village homes, from conflict zones back to markets. It carries centuries of design innovation, colour theory, and textile science. It carries lessons in geometry, patience, and quiet perseverance.


Heritage is not static. It breathes, migrates, falters, and rises again – just like Aghabani embroidery.


At There to Wear, we honour this craft not as a relic of the past but as a living art – a design language that continues to evolve, adapt, and adorn life with meaning.


Because when you run your hand over its golden threads, you touch more than beauty.You touch a story that refused to fade.

 
 
 
  • Writer: TheretoWear
    TheretoWear
  • Oct 12, 2024
  • 3 min read

Updated: 2 days ago



The cannage weave is more than just a decorative design—it's a centuries-old craft that has evolved across cultures, leaving its mark from ancient civilizations to modern luxury. This enduring technique, with its lattice-like patterns, has woven together history, tradition, and innovation, making it an icon in furniture, fashion, and design.


Origins in Southeast Asia


The roots of cane weaving can be traced back to Southeast Asia, where artisans began crafting with natural materials like rattan and cane. These materials were prized for their strength, flexibility, and breathability. Weaving techniques were passed down through generations, creating functional objects like baskets, mats, and containers essential to daily life.



Spreading Across Continents: Patterns of Cultural Expression


As the art of cane weaving spread across Asia and Africa, each region infused the craft with its own patterns and unique touches. Cane and rattan were woven into not only everyday objects but also ceremonial items, reflecting the cultural heritage and traditions of each region. From intricate patterns in African baskets to Southeast Asian furniture, the craft became both a functional and artistic expression of local identity.



Cane Weaving in Europe


By the 17th century, cane weaving had made its way to Europe, where it underwent significant transformation to suit European tastes. French and English artisans began incorporating cane weaving into furniture design, particularly for chair seats and backs. The cannage pattern, characterized by its geometric, lattice-like design, became a hallmark of elegance and refinement, famously seen in the chairs of Napoleon III’s court.


Michael Thonet and the Revolution of the Bistro Chair



One of the most pivotal moments in the evolution of cannage came in the mid-19th century with Michael Thonet’s iconic No. 14 chair. The use of a caned seat in this bentwood chair revolutionized furniture manufacturing, making it lightweight, affordable, and elegant. Known as the “bistro chair,” it became a fixture in cafés worldwide and remains a symbol of chic, minimalist design to this day.


Pierre Jeanneret Modernism and Chandigarh




The mid-20th century saw another reinvention of cannage with Pierre Jeanneret’s contributions to the modernist movement. His designs for Chandigarh, India, incorporated the airy, light weave into sleek, minimalist chairs that blended traditional craftsmanship with modernist aesthetics. These chairs not only embraced the practical qualities of cannage but also brought it into the realm of architectural and design innovation.


Cannage in Fashion



Perhaps the most famous reinvention of cannage occurred in the world of fashion. In the 1940s, Christian Dior spotted the pattern on Napoleon III chairs in his Paris boutique and was inspired to bring this centuries-old craft into haute couture. Dior’s application of the cannage weave on the Lady Dior handbag transformed the ancient technique into a symbol of luxury. This reinvention forever linked the craft to the world of fashion, making it a lasting icon of refinement and elegance.


Cannage in the Modern World


Today, the cannage weave continues to endure in modern design, from classic Thonet bistro chairs to high-end fashion collections. Its versatility is its beauty—whether woven into a chair, a handbag, or a piece of architecture, the pattern remains a timeless connection between ancient craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics.



The Future of Cane Weaving: Preserving a Heritage Craft


Despite its iconic status in luxury design, the traditional handmade cannage weave faces challenges in the modern world. With the rise of mass production, the number of skilled artisans trained in traditional weaving methods is in decline. However, efforts are being made to preserve this craft, ensuring that the artistry of cane weaving continues to thrive in both heritage and contemporary contexts.


A Symbol of Tradition and Innovation


Cane weaving is not just a pattern or a design element—it’s a testament to the endurance of craftsmanship through time. From its humble beginnings in Southeast Asia to its status as a symbol of luxury in furniture and fashion, it represents the perfect balance of tradition, innovation, and elegance. As long as we continue to value the art of weaving, cannage will remain woven into the fabric of our history and design.

 
 
 


In the heart of the Vatican in Rome, surrounded by the breathtaking artistry of the Renaissance, I found myself captivated not just by the paintings and sculptures but by the profound impact this era has had on modern fashion.


The Renaissance, a period celebrated for its groundbreaking art, innovative perspectives, and philosophical enlightenment, also heralded a distinctive era in fashion, characterized by opulence, detailed craftsmanship, and a deep connection to beauty and expression.



I've come to understand that the Renaissance's influence today is a testament to fashion's timeless journey and its ability to transcend the boundaries of time and place.


Reviving Elegance and Extravagance

Renaissance fashion was all about extravagance and elegance. The rich textures, intricate lace, and voluminous gowns of the era have found their way back into our wardrobes, reimagined in contemporary designs that nod to the past while embracing the future. Modern haute couture, with its emphasis on craftsmanship and detail, echoes the Renaissance celebration of the human form and beauty, allowing us to wear pieces that feel both luxurious and historically significant.


The Art of Accessorizing

Just as Renaissance individuals adorned themselves with jewels, ruffs, and elaborate headpieces to signify status and wealth, today's fashion enthusiasts embrace accessories to express personality and style. Whether it's through statement jewelry that mirrors the ornate designs of the past or through belts and bags that incorporate Renaissance patterns and motifs, we continue to draw on this era's love for adornment to enhance our everyday looks.




A Fusion of Cultures

Studying Art History and my passion for fashion have taught me how to weave Renaissance inspiration into my personal style. This period, famous for its revolutionary art and ideas, inspires me to mix the old with the new in my clothes.

I pick pieces that echo this era but still fit today's fashion, making my style a tribute to that influential era.



Embracing Color and Pattern

The bold use of color and intricate patterns that defined Renaissance attire is making a resurgence in today's fashion scene. From the deep jewel tones reminiscent of Renaissance art to the floral and geometric

patterns that adorn modern fabrics, the era's influence is unmistakable. It encourages us to be bold in our color choices and to mix patterns in ways that pay homage to the past while celebrating our individuality.


In a world where fashion is often seen as fleeting, the enduring influence of the Renaissance on modern attire reminds us that style is a cyclical journey of rediscovery and reinterpretation. It's a dialogue between the past and present, a way to carry forward the legacy of beauty, craftsmanship, and expression that defines both eras.

 
 
 
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